Tag Archives: diy

Elecraft KX2 Serial Remote Control using an Arduino Nano – DIY Programming Project with Electronics

Temporary link to video (unreleased) https://youtu.be/SxZHe3Q8yS0

Source Code (Arduino Sketch) – https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vAFgU1TkJCllOeE5bnVJjdRnTjgfB0MQ/view?usp=sharing

Video Script:
Demonstration of what I’ve made! While the KX2 has all of the functions built in, I wanted a way to quickly make changes without having to dig through menus and button combinations. The major reason that I wanted to make a control box is for sending pre-recorded messages in CW and SSB modes. Almost every time I pushed the MSG button I would inadvertently tap the VFO and change my transmit frequency. Then I found some other settings that I would like to have one button push to activate. A couple of settings could take several minutes to set up if they get out of whack, and they can be done in less than a second with the simple push of a button.

For CW, switches 1 through 3 send a pre-recorded CW message. Switch 5 changes the filter settings to a weak signal setting.

The SSB mode has two pre-recorded message switches and settings to reset the AF GAIN, MIC GAIN, and COMPRESSION levels.

The data setting changes a ton of things so you can hook the KX2 to a PC for digital modes. It would take quite some time to make those changes, and this macro sets it up in a matter of seconds.

Finally, all settings have an RF GAIN reduction macro to reduce the gain in the presence of strong signals. As programmed it will reduce the AF GAIN by -3, -5, -10, -20, and -60dB without needing to use the settings menu.

The Anderson Powerpole connectors allow you to use a power supply to power both the Arduino Nano and the radio, if needed.

Construction Segment – The Nuts and Bolts
Shown here is my prototype that I built on a breadboard with the Arduino Uno. Prior to this point I gathered the following materials for my build. If you build the exact model that I did, you’ll need:
1 – Arduino Nano
5 – single pole single throw momentary switches
1 – 3.5mm TRS (stereo) jack
2 – 15A Anderson Powerpoles
About a dozen jumper wires in assorted colors plus two 10AWG wires to loop power from one Powerpole to the other.
I used Q Dope as a temporary adhesive to hold a few things in place
I 3D printed a dual Anderson mount found at Thingiverse
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1205771 Anderson PowerPole “Wall” Mounts by VCHSRobotics December 16, 2015
You’ll need an enclosure. I used a box that my guitar pickup was shipped in. 3D printing an enclosure would have been my choice, but I found this while looking for parts, and I liked it!
I gathered some of the parts to do a dry fit on the enclosure to make sure everything could be crammed in there.
I cut the end of the enclosure to install the Powerpoles and power for the Arduino board.
Next I used Scotch tape, a permanent marker, and a pair of calipers to score where I wanted the switch holes to be.
Carefully, I drilled each hole to the size of the panel mount switches.
I used jumper wires with one end cut off to connect the switches to the Arduino Nano. I soldered the power and ground directly to the board. I also soldered three jumpers to the TRS jack for the serial communications to the KX2.
The next step was to program the Arduino Nano and test functionality before “gluing” the jumper wires and placing the Arduino board into the enclosure.
Everything is closed up so alpha testing can commence.
I printed a label, albeit incorrect and not final, to adhere to the front of the remote control box. Buttons 4 and 5 are swapped, and I added more functions after I tested the system live in the field during a #POTA activation.
This image is me alpha testing my design in real time during a real #POTA activation at K-2195 Reed Bingham State Park. I discovered that there were some timing issues that I needed to correct in the software, and I made a list of additional functions that I wanted to add.

Files hosted at http://w1rcp.com

#elecraft #kx2 #pota #arduino #hamradio #amateur #radio #diy #electronics #parks on the #air

Baofeng Battery Eliminator

3D print and a $3 buck converter!
While I was printing 18650 battery cases for my Baofeng and my Yaesu HTs, I was wondering what would happen if I built a regulated linear power for my Baofeng so I could run it from 12 volts. (You can buy a battery eliminator for about $14, but you’ll still have to cut the cigarette lighter adapter off to use with some other connector.) Back to the DIY…I did some rough math in my head and decided that a linear supply would be a waste of energy in heat that I didn’t want. PLA melts at a low temperature AND I was wanting to use the radio in a battery powered ARDF fox box so power consumption conservation is paramount! I decided I’d look at building a switching DC-DC buck converter which is about 100% more efficient compared to a linear supply (about 90% efficient overall).

After looking at the easy schematic, I quickly realized I could probably get one cheaper than the sum of the parts and shipping. Off to eBay I went. I was not disappointed. You can either buy them in bulk from China for about $5 or you can buy one from a guy in Georgia for $2.75. I’ve included the edited screen shot from eBay. Shipping is fast, and I am very pleased. I’ve bought two from the seller because I reversed the leads on the first one and burned it up. Hint: WATCH YOUR POLARITY! These are not forgiving.

The first step was to print the modified battery case. I used Tinfoil_Haberdashery’s original Baofeng 18650 case, but I used Tinkercad to cut out the middle so the buck converter could fit in it, and I added a hole in the back for the wires. (Here’s my STL file.)

All I had to do then was connect the wires! I chose to use a barrel connector on the back because of the power splitter I’m using in the fox box. I’m usually a fan of Anderson Powerpole connectors, but this time around I chose something different. The input and output polarities are clearly labeled on the circuit board. You need almost no electronics knowledge to make this work! Just watch your polarities.

Finally, you hook it up to a 12v supply and turn the little potentiometer until the voltage is where you want it. I chose 7.4 volts which is the nominal Li-ion battery voltage.



Inverted Vee 40m Dipole and Mast

My Purpose

Antennas in the back yardIt has been a long time since I have experimented with antennas and yard ornaments (tall, antenna holding things like towers and masts), but recently I have been annoyed by the performance of my Hustler 5BTV vertical. I have vertically polarized noise that tends to aggravate me, so I wanted to try an inverted vee dipole to see if conditions improve.

Lately, I have been working CW, and I have had some fading signals and noise, so I figured that the dipole might help some with this. The issue is that I needed somewhere to mount this thing! Continue reading Inverted Vee 40m Dipole and Mast